Enamellers create or reproduce designs in enamel: a glass-based material which has been ground into a fine powder. An enameller uses a variety of techniques, such as champlevé, cloisonné, grisaille, plique-à-jour and enamel miniatures, to decorate a watch dial by bonding enamel to metal in a kiln.
Although we cannot date with absolute certainty the first use of enamel as a decorative technique, gold artefacts with pâte de verre embellishments and statues inlaid with enamel were observed in ancient Egypt and, later, Greece. For some four thousand years, this ancestral art has enhanced all manner of decorative objects. An enameller must demonstrate a confident hand, have experience of the basic materials and master the art of fire. Enamel is a vitreous material composed of various minerals with the addition of metal oxides for colour. When decorating a dial, an enameller applies thin layers of powdered enamel to a copper, silver or gold blank, firing each successive layer in the kiln. The term "grand feu" refers to enamel that has been fired at a higher temperature than conventional enamels, typically between 820 and 850 degrees Celsius.
From the sixteenth century, skilful enamelwork transformed watches into stunning works of art. Although enamel can become chipped if knocked, this robust, almost unalterable material offers vibrant, shimmering colours with which to embellish timepieces and jewellery. Geneva, already a world-renowned centre for watchmaking, lost no time in demonstrating its expertise in this decorative art. The city's artisans perfected a technique in which a final layer of transparent fondant was applied to scenes painted in grand feu enamel, smoothing the surface and imparting brilliance and depth. These émaux de Genève were coveted objects and, in the seventeenth century, the reputation of Geneva's master enamellers spread. Some would become famous in their own right, signing their name on original enamel miniatures.
Irrespective of technique, an enameller works with a fine brush to apply enamel powder in the chosen colour. After the first application, the piece is fired in the kiln. The enameller then applies a second colour which is also fired. The process is repeated as often as required by the palette of colours chosen to create the finished design. Because each colour has a different melting point, an enameller will begin with the colour that vitrifies at the highest temperature and end with the colour that has the lowest melting point. Each successive firing must be completed without damaging the piece: should even a hairline crack or air bubbles appear, or should a colour burn in the kiln, all the work up to that point will be ruined.
Enamelling techniques
Champlevé – This is the oldest enamelling technique. The pattern or scene is carved into the watch dial or case, forming cavities which are then filled with enamel. The enamel is fused to the metal in successive firings.
Cloisonné – The enameller traces the outline of the design in gold or silver wire (secured to the base with an adhesive that disappears during firing) to form cells. Successive layers of enamel are applied inside these cells to obtain the required volumes and colours after multiple firings.
Plique-à-jour – A derivative of the cloisonné technique. The cells are backed with copper foil which is removed after firing by a light tap or dissolved with acid. The absence of a metal backing on the finished piece produces a stained-glass effect.
Enamel miniature – Thin layers of enamel are hand-painted, colour by colour, on a background of fired enamel. Each layer is fired before the next colour is applied.
Grisaille – Successive applications of blanc de Limoges (an oil-based white enamel) are made on a black or dark-coloured enamel ground to form a palette of greys and create effects of light and shade.
Flinqué – A translucent, sometimes lightly coloured enamel is applied over a guilloché (engine-turned) background. This technique intensifies the play of light on the engraved surface.
Paillonné – tiny decorative shapes cut from gold foil ("paillons") are placed one by one on a layer of enamel then covered with another layer of translucent enamel prior to firing. The result is a subtle impression of depth.
In Switzerland, block-release training in watch and jewellery enamelling leads to a diploma awarded by the Convention Patronale de l'Industrie Horlogère Suisse. Students train over 22 months spread over a maximum three years and learn the different techniques used in the watch industry: champlevé, cloisonné, grisaille, plique-à-jour and enamel miniature. Candidates must hold a Certificat Fédéral de Capacité in watchmaking or equivalent and are required to take an entrance exam. There are also continuous training modules which teach basic enamelling techniques prior to an eventual specialisation.
Mastering enamelling techniques is a long and difficult but rewarding process. This is why the watchmaking companies that are integrating arts and crafts into their workshops are offering attractive employment conditions to retain their enamellers. With experience, or after having been taught by a master craftsman, enamellers can also consider becoming independent if they manage to build up a stable network of customers. Today, the most talented enamellers are recognised and sought-after. In fact, they are regularly cited by watch manufacturers as the creators of their finest enamelled pieces, a guarantee of exceptional craftsmanship.
What does it take to become a watch enameller?
An enameller must have excellent eyesight and the ability to stay focused. Manual dexterity and the ability to work consistently and precisely are essential qualities. Creativity is important and most enamellers will have an interest in art.
What are the main challenges?
The biggest challenge is to master the different enamelling techniques, each with its specificities, and to become familiar with the firing process – all of which takes time. A particularly complex enamelled piece can require several dozen firings.
What employment opportunities are there for a watch enameller?
Job prospects are good, as a growing number of brands are opening their own studios and bringing craft skills, including enamelling, in-house. An experienced watch enameller can work freelance or head a creative team.