Horloger concepteur CI

Watchmaker developer

Introduction 

A Watchmaker developer conceptualises, sizes and develops simple and/or complicated watch movements. They must be familiar with manufacturing and environmental constraints, and integrate these into the project through feasibility studies, in line with project specifications. Using 3D modelling software, they simulate and test interactions between components, then produce construction drawings for the movement and its components. A Watchmaker developer makes continuous improvements to prototypes until the start of production. 

Description 

Watchmaker developers play a central role at brands, where they contribute to projects aimed at improving existing products or creating new ones. Working with a watch designer, microengineer and production watchmaker, a Watchmaker developer draws up specifications based on guidelines given by management and the marketing department. In-house movement development is a strategic activity for brands, given the increased complexities of sourcing movement blanks and finished calibres from third parties. It also demonstrates the technical capabilities of brands which present themselves as Manufactures and wish to position their products accordingly. 

Consequently, since the 2010s a large number of brands have brought movement development and manufacturing capability in-house, motivated not simply by the need to secure supply but also by the competitive advantage of offering original products. In a similar vein, specialist companies have sprung up, developing and building calibres for third parties. This activity demands proven competencies, a high level of professionalism and extensive experience, hence their clients include a great many famous brands. 

Education 

A Watchmaker developer will have trained as a watchmaker or completed a course in micromechanics/mechanical engineering, possibly followed by a post-graduate qualification that requires analysis and conceptualisation of a mechanical or electronic movement. Watchmaker developers must be fluent in computer-aided design (CAD) tools and calculation software. They must understand manufacturing and feasibility constraints and incorporate them into the concept. Knowledge of the watch industry is also essential. Part of the technical department, they develop all or part of a movement which they conceptualise in technical drawings. Their job is to create 3D models of the components, define their architecture based on their function, test the various materials' resistance and friction coefficients, and incorporate these components into an efficient, accurate and reliable mechanism. Once the concept reaches the prototype stage, the Watchmaker developer continues to make refinements to obtain an optimal result, ready for production. 

Employment Opportunities 

Movement development requires solid training, years of experience and an interest in research and development. A Watchmaker developer generally starts with simple movements before moving on to the different complications: first, useful complications (e.g. day, date, second time zone) then regulators (tourbillons), astronomical complications (e.g. perpetual calendar, moon phases), calculation of short elapsed times (chronograph) and striking mechanisms (minute repeater, grande and petite sonnerie). A "grande complication" movement can represent the pinnacle of a Watchmaker developer's career. 

A Watchmaker developer can work for one of the major watch brands, whose capacity for innovation depends partly on the competencies of the developers they employ. Smaller specialist companies also employ Watchmaker developers to propose innovative technical solutions for third-party clients. Many such companies have formed since the early 2000s and take advantage of materials borrowed from other sectors such as aerospace, Formula 1 and telecom satellites. 

The most talented Watchmaker developers might consider setting up under their own name, in which case they need to offer a genuine alternative and/or added value in terms of mechanical movement construction and complications. Most of the time, this is financed by a second activity such as restoration of antique or vintage timepieces, or commissions to develop mechanical solutions for other brands. 

Q&A

What does a Watchmaker developer do? 

A Watchmaker developer is responsible for the technical development of watch movements. They contribute to the working party that defines the scope of the project, following which they identify the mechanical (or electronic) solutions required to deliver the project in line with specifications. 

 

What makes a good Watchmaker developer? 

Watchmaker developers should have a mathematical mindset, be methodical, show good spatial ability and have knowledge of 2D and 3D software. They must be detail-oriented and enjoy working on protracted projects – it can take years to bring a new watch to market. 

 

What qualifications are needed to become a Watchmaker developer? 

A Watchmaker developer (in Switzerland) must hold a Certificat Fédéral de Capacité in watchmaking, plus a Bachelor of Science in microengineering or mechanical engineering, possibly followed with a Master of Advanced Studies in movement development. Practical experience is equally important to acquiring the skills required to develop innovative mechanical solutions.