Introduction
A marquetry-inlayer (sometimes called a marquetarian) cuts and assembles veneers of wood and sometimes other materials, such as mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell or straw, into geometric, figurative or abstract designs for watch dials.
Marquetry-inlayer
Description
Marquetry originated as a decorative technique in which wood was inlaid with fragments of other materials such as ivory, horn or stone. Widespread in the ancient world as an embellishment for furniture and other objects in daily use, it did not survive the Roman Empire. It reappeared in Italy in the Middle Ages as intarsio but reached its zenith in Europe in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, helped by advances in metalworking and better fretsaws, but thanks also to importations of exotic woods from Asia by the East India Company. This was the heyday of André-Charles Boulle (1642-1732), cabinetmaker to Louis XIV of France. This most remarkable craftsman was renowned for the furniture he inlaid with tortoiseshell and brass. His name and many of the techniques he perfected live on.
Marquetry is a relative newcomer to watchmaking, benefitting from the resurgence of interest in the métiers d'art in the early 2000s. Once in danger of extinction - much like the mechanical watch, a time overshadowed by more accurate, cheaper, fashionable electronic watches -, the traditional métiers d'art of enamelling, engraving, engine-turning and gem-setting are enjoying a new golden era thanks to certain Manufactures and their commitment to preserving these centuries-old skills. Little by little, interest in watchmaking's companion crafts has extended to other more "exotic" techniques; some brought back from the past, others inspired by world cultures and some never previously used in watchmaking. Marquetry belongs to the latter category.
A marquetry-maker works with many different wood species in a range of colours. Veneers are cut into shapes then assembled into a design which can be the product of the marquetry-maker's imagination, inspired by an existing design or requested by the client. Marquetry-makers can choose among some 150 species of wood, for example amaranth, tulipwood, walnut and sycamore, offering some 60 to 70 natural shades, in addition to the veneers which the marquetry-maker can stain to suit their purpose. The first step is to draw the design, two to three times larger than the dial. Lines must be clean and precise before scaling the drawing to the required dimensions. Next, the pattern is transferred to tracing paper and the individual shapes are cut out to make templates, leaving space around the edges.
The next step is the most delicate. The marquetry-maker positions the templates on the veneer; in fact several layers of veneer, each 0.5 to 0.8mm thick. Each piece is cut from the veneer with a fretsaw. Precision is key as the saw must cut down the centre of the traced line, which is around one tenth of a millimetre thick. Cutting multiple veneers simultaneously facilities the saw-work, is useful when producing small series of dials, and can even provide "spare parts" if required. Some pieces can be scorched with a flame to create shading and depth. Following this, the pieces are assembled, like a jigsaw puzzle, and glued to the base. The finished marquetry is then fixed to the dial, lightly sanded to a perfectly smooth surface and varnished.
Wood marquetry for a watch dial calls for millimetric precision and unwavering concentration, bearing in mind that some designs comprise several hundred pieces, some no bigger than a pinhead. The most complex projects require months of work to achieve a wealth of lifelike detail. Other forms of marquetry have appeared in watchmaking in recent years, using not wood veneers but straw, feathers, stones, flower petals or a combination of materials.
Employment Opportunities
Unlike in France or Italy, there is no marquetry school in Switzerland and no formal qualification. Most of the country's marquetry-inlayers trained first as cabinetmakers then specialised under an experienced maker (few are self-taught). Wood marquetry is still a relatively recent technique in watchmaking and therefore only a handful of marquetry-makers work exclusively on watches; the majority also carry out restoration work.
As with most "niche" crafts, a marquetry-inlayer wishing to specialise in timepieces will most likely work freelance. Projects are not limited to dials; wood marquetry is also found on watch presentation boxes and on clock cases. While they offer additional prospects, the list of potential clients remains limited.
Q&A
What are the main challenges for a marquetry-inlayer?
As with every craft, precision and the ability to focus are essential: a marquetry-maker must acquire sufficient experience to cut and assemble often tiny pieces with millimetric precision. On a practical level, a marquetry-inlayer must have the space to store veneers in a controlled environment.
How can I train as a marquetry-maker for watches?
While there are no marquetry training courses in Switzerland, someone who is interested in becoming a marquetry-maker can gain experience of working with wood by first training as a cabinetmaker, through an apprenticeship or on a four-year study course. Once qualified, the best way to break into this difficult and demanding profession is through contacts with an established marquetry-maker.