Introduction
A watch finisher prepares and finishes fabricated components to give them their final appearance through a range of techniques, executed using special hand tools or CNC machines.
Watch finisher
Description
A huge part of a watch's appeal is visual, hence finishing is a crucial stage in the manufacturing process. For this reason, brands employ a range of techniques to enhance their timepieces' aesthetic. These techniques come into play early on in production: components are never integrated into a watch fresh off the machine. They invariably present scratches, burrs, rough or sharp edges and must spend time in specialist hands in order to remove surface imperfections. A case, dial or bracelet must be impeccably finished prior to final assembly, not only for aesthetic reasons but as a guarantee that components will perform their function to perfection.
Freshly machined pieces are delivered to the finisher who begins by preparing them for heat treatment, surface treatment or decoration. First, asperities and burrs are removed on a grinding wheel. Traces left by the machining process can be erased using an abrasive paste or by sandblasting. Following this, the surface is smoothed and dust removed. A finisher might also be called on to make positioners (to hold the workpiece in place), tools or very small external parts, by hand or by micro-machining with a drill, a turning machine or a milling machine.
There is not one but several finishing techniques, each with its own characteristics and all intended to impart a particular beauty to visible as well as invisible surfaces. One technique of particular interest is polishing, whereby a surface is smoothed and buffed to a shiny, reflective finish. This adds both to the aesthetic and the durability of the component. In contrast, satin brushing and sunray brushing create a matte effect. Other techniques include circular-graining (also called perlage), côtes de Genève, chamfering or bevelling, snailing and microblasting. Some parts, cases or metal bracelets for example, alternate different finishes which, thus combined, add to the originality of the piece.
Finishers are proficient in the use of conventional, hand-operated machines such as a polishing lathe, although some finishes are now executed on machines – part of the increased mechanisation of watch production. For this reason, a finisher must know how to adjust and operate a CNC machine. Each finished component is quality-controlled then placed in protective packaging, ready for assembly.
Education
In Switzerland, a watch finisher completes a three-year apprenticeship, with four days per week of workplace training plus one day of study in a training centre or college, as well as inter-company study days (30 days over the three years). At the end of the first two years, apprentices can choose an "haute horlogerie" specialisation, perfecting techniques learned thus far on complex and high added-value pieces (gem-set or in precious metal). There is also a CNC option, whereby students learn to adjust tools in CNC machines and actively collaborate with the programmer to achieve the desired result. At the end of the three years, students take their Certificat Fédéral de Capacité (CFC). Further study options are then a Diplôme Fédéral as an industrial production manager, or a Bachelor's in mechanical engineering, industrial design, micro-engineering or industrial systems (3 years of full-time study / 4 years on block release).
Employment Opportunities
The majority of finishers are employed at watch manufacturers' production facilities. Working at a bench, wearing safety glasses and ear protection, they perform skilled hand-finishing techniques. This meticulous work adds to the quality and aesthetic of the watch's parts and, because of this, finishers are a vital link in the chain, alongside the micro-machinists, watchmakers, technicians and engineers.
The introduction of innovative materials along with new production technologies is partly redefining the profession of finisher. Whereas it would be impossible to finish a particularly complex piece using nothing but machines, manufacturers are equipping their workshops with machine-tools capable of increasingly precise results, including for finishing. However, because these machines represent a major investment that would be hard to recover compared with manual finishing, fully automated finishing is not yet a viable proposition. While the ability to operate a CNC machine still constitutes a requisite skill, high added value pieces will always be manually finished by qualified professionals.
Q&A
What does a watch finisher do?
A finisher performs various techniques to impart a particular aspect to watch components. Even a tiny flaw will be visible to the naked eye and so each operation must be executed with care and attention: there is no room for error. Any part that does not meet the required standard of quality must be started from scratch and might even be discarded.
What makes a good watch finisher?
Any watch finisher must enjoy working with metals. Manual dexterity is essential, as is an aptitude for performing practical and technical tasks. Most importantly, finishers are expected to demonstrate extreme care and precision.
What are the job opportunities for a watch finisher?
Finishing is an essential aspect of watchmaking, hence every watch manufacturer and component manufacturer has a specialist department and hires finishers on a regular basis. A qualified finisher can go on to take a diploma in production management, which opens up other interesting career options.