FHH | Hermès Arceau: Elegant Timepiece Design

Hermès. Hermès. Hermès. Hermès. Hermès. Hermès

Arceau. Arceau. Arceau. Arceau. Arceau

The Arceau is distinguished by its stirrup-shaped lugs.

Launch Year

1978

Functions

hours, minutes

Movement

quartz

Distinctive features

stainless steel case, 36mm diameter, white dial, sloping numerals, natural Barenia leather strap

Originally a saddle- and harness-maker, Hermès’ first involvement in watchmaking was by crafting leather straps. It began putting its name to watches created with various partners in the 1920s, and then actually producing them as of 1978 when it set up its La Montre Hermès watchmaking division in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland. That year also saw the launch of the Arceau. Designed by Henri d’Origny, Creative Director of Hermès in Paris, it comes imbued with a strongly identifiable equestrian spirit. 

Montre Hermès Headquarters © Hermès

Montre Hermès Headquarters © Hermès

This equestrian influence shines through in the stirrup shape which transforms the customary case lugs into particularly elegant fastenings. The asymmetry between 12 and 6 o’clock adds to the originality of a system that integrates the leather strap in a uniquely seamless way. The case and strap are entirely interdependent, and each makes an equally strong contribution to the watch’s identity. The latter is further accentuated by the sloping hour numerals on the dial, which appear to be in motion, as if trotting around an equestrian arena.

Leather straps are an integral part of all Hermès watches and have been crafted in its Swiss workshop since 2006. They are cut from specific hides – mostly Barenia calfskin – and finished with traditional saddle stitching. Tracing its watchmaking history back to the first watch strap, which appears in a 1912 photo on the wrist of the founder’s great-granddaughter, Hermès seized the opportunity of its 100th anniversary to equip the Arceau collection with one of its two first entirely exclusive Manufacture movements. The line was thus extended in 2012 to include an extremely prestigious range of ladies’ watches. 

The Arceau collection has been considerably enriched since the mid-2000s. After the launch of the self-winding model as an alternative to quartz in 2004, its technical nature was further reinforced by specialties such as chronograph, skeleton or moon-phase movements. In 2011 the Arceau was chosen to host the world-first exclusive “Time Suspended” complication. In 2012, in another vein, it welcomed straw marquetry dials. The Arceau, alongside the Slim, has become a signature line as well as a canvas for the many and varied talents of the company’s artisans, as demonstrated on the dials of the Awooooo! (enamelling), Into the Canadian Wild (miniature painting), Harnais Français Remix (carved and painted porcelain) and the Toucan de Paradis (miniature painting and hand-threaded silk). It has welcomed complications, notably the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune in 2019 and the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in 2022, both distinguished by satellite displays developed by Chronode for Hermès. The first watch produced by Hermès, the Arceau remains a star of its collections.

Key Characteristics

  • First watch produced by La Montre Hermès in Switzerland
  • Typically Hermès equestrian vocabulary: a case with attachments inspired by stirrups