FHH | Andreas Strehler Papillon: Minimalist Watch Artistry

Andreas Strehler. Andreas Strehler. Andreas Strehler. Andreas Strehler. Andreas Strehler. Andreas Strehler

Papillon. Papillon. Papillon. Papillon. Papillon

Andreas Strehler is actively renewing the watchmaking genre by building minimalist movements, designed like living organisms.

Launch Year

2008

Functions

Hours, minutes

Movement

Mechanical manual-winding, twin barrel, 78-hour power reserve

Distinctive features

White gold or platinum case, 41 x 37.3mm (47.2mm including the lugs), mystery display, sapphire crystal

Well-known to insiders for having created original movements for various famous brands, Andreas Strehler has been an independent watchmaker since 1995. In parallel with his development activities for others, as well as restoration, he also creates his own models including the Papillon watch introduced in 2008, a signature skeletonized model that is remarkable in terms of both its simplified construction and its design.

Andreas Strehler’s inventive approach to horology is expressed through a ‘mystery’ time display. Basically, two barrels power a gear train composed of two giant wheels instead of the customary three, thereby reducing both friction and energy consumption. The hours and minutes are displayed on sapphire disks placed on the barrels, while the Art Nouveau style butterfly after which the watch is named is as functional as it is decorative. Its openworked wings form a singularly elegant network of bridges.

Papillon, lifestyle ©Andreas Strehler

Papillon, lifestyle ©Andreas Strehler

Overall, Strehler is actively renewing the watchmaking genre by building deliberately minimalist movements, designed like living organisms liable to fascinate devotees of fine mechanical engineering. His Papillon model is magnificently framed by a case featuring a highly original aesthetic: a kind of tonneau (barrel) shape topped by a bezel evoking a TV-type screen with rounded edges. It has become a hallmark of creations from the brand with the butterfly – a recurrent motif in its movement designs and also the brand symbol.

In 2012, Strehler reprised the butterfly-shaped bridge concept to create the Cocon, a more conventional-looking watch with a multi-level dial bearing hands. Visible through the back, the dainty insect has been redesigned and seems to have taken shelter inside its cocoon, where it appears adorned with Côtes de Genève. The latter decoration was picked up in 2013 on the Sauterelle caliber, which also features a remontoir d’égalité constant-force mechanism with a jumping action. In 2015, the butterfly returned to center-stage on the front of the Papillon d’Or watch, crafted in solid gold and beautifully enhancing a model displaying the hours and minutes with blued steel hands sweeping over an airy silver ring.

Key Characteristics

  • Decorative and functional butterfly formed by the movement bridges
  • Simplified yet nonetheless complex movement
  • Original Andreas Strehler signature case