Jean-Adrien Philippe

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Jean-Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker, invented a system for keyless winding by the crown in 1842. His meeting in 1844 with the businessman Antoine Norbert de Patek gave rise to the company Patek Philippe & Co. a few years later.

Born in rural France, in La Bazoche-Gouët, in 1815, Jean-Adrien Philippe was introduced to the art of time measurement by his father, a country watchmaker with a solid grounding in his craft. Armed with a sound knowledge of mechanisms – his father had built a number of clocks with original and complex movements – at the age of eighteen Jean-Adrien Philippe set out on a European journey with the intention of further honing his skills. He travelled through France, Switzerland and England, ultimately settling in Paris – coincidentally, he arrived at the same time as a government-sponsored factory manufacturing pocket watches was opening in nearby Versailles. The young Philippe saw himself following in the footsteps of the likes of Breguet, Berthoud and Le Roy, and dreamed he might one day conquer Paris under his own name, in the grand tradition. The business he founded with a young Swiss watchmaker he had met in London proved successful, producing up to 150 watches per year. It was around this time that Jean-Adrien Philippe began to investigate a means of winding and setting the hands without a key. This visionary idea culminated in 1842 in a stem-winding system that was, Philippe would later write, “a more simple, solid and convenient system than has ever existed before.” This novel mechanism went on to win a Bronze Medal at the 1844 Industrial Exposition in Paris, where it caught the eye of a certain Antoine Norbert de Patek.

 

Established in Geneva, Antoine Norbert de Patek was by no means a technician but he was a shrewd businessman who knew an opportunity when he saw one, and wasted no time in inviting Jean-Adrien Philippe to become a partner in his company – the future “Patek, Philippe & Cie – Fabricants à Genève” – which he joined a few months later. When the French Revolution of 1848 took its toll on business, Patek and Philippe used this time to introduce mechanised production. Like Georges-Auguste Leschot at Vacheron & Constantin eight years previously, and assisted by talented technicians, Jean-Adrien Philippe developed machine-tools that could produce perfectly interchangeable parts. These rational new methods by no means overshadowed Philippe’s creative side; during this time he developed some of the company’s finest movements and invented the slipping spring, a compensation balance, various index assemblies and jointed winding stems that were easier to assemble. Independently of his mechanical innovations, Jean-Adrien Philippe published a number of studies on matters of interest to watchmakers including, in 1863, a book on keyless winding. The French government presented him with the Legion of Honour for services rendered in 1890, a year before Jean-Adrien Philippe stepped down from Patek, Philippe & Cie, handing over to his son, Émile. He died in 1894.

 

 

1842

Invention of a system for keyless winding by the crown.

1844

Awarded a Bronze Medal for his keyless winding and hand-setting mechanism at the Industrial Exposition in Paris.

1845

Patent for the keyless winding and hand-setting mechanism.

1851

Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe became business partners. Patek, Czapek & Cie, established 1839, was renamed Patek, Philippe & Cie – Fabricants à Genève.

1863

Invention of the slipping spring at the end of the mainspring. Publication of his authoritative work on keyless winding, Les Montres sans clef.

1868

Patek, Philippe & Cie made the first Swiss wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary.

1890

Awarded the Legion of Honour for services to France.