The Memovox by Jaeger-LeCoultre has evolved in a strange way: the first self-winding alarm watch set off to conquer underwater depths, confirming visual signals with an acoustic alert. Clever thinking indeed! The 1959 Memovox Deep Sea preceded the Memovox Polaris which, in 1965, combined exceptional legibility and sound quality. In 2008 it was honoured by an almost identical re-edition of two models. While the original model was issued in a prestigious 65-piece platinum limited series, the most famous version, from 1968, was produced in a run of 768 steel watches. The extremely large-diameter vintage cases did not have a dive watch’s customary rotating bezel, but instead an inner rotating bezel. The latter framed a typical Memovox dial with a central rotating disk serving to select the alarm time. In addition to its size, a key feature of the Polaris was its chime that proved remarkably audible under water – far more than that of the Deep Sea – even with water-resistance to 300 meters. It was equipped with a triple caseback: one in bronze for resonance, another for water-resistance and a third perforated caseback to ensure that contact with the diving suit would not muffle the sound. In the re-editions, this now unnecessary system has been replaced by a single functional caseback, along with a perforated caseback that serves simply to reflect the initial aesthetic. Unchanged, however, is the synthetic crystal (rather than sapphire crystal) dome over the dial. The model also features the original knurled crowns with a “chequered surface” serving to adjust the various functions: one at 4 o’clock for the time; another at 2 o’clock for the alarm; and a central one for dive times. The first Memovox Polaris watches were produced from 1965 to 1970 with variations in the style of the hands and indications, depending on the intended markets. The most legendary version ever, the 1968 model, is recognizable by its large, luminescent, trapeze-shaped hour-markers. Connoisseurs delight in the fact that its re-edition is a perfect replica in aesthetic terms. Technically, it of course benefits from a latest-generation movement. In 2018 the Polaris collection launched with six models, including a Polaris Memovox whose movement, Calibre 956 with striking mechanism and gong, is an updated descendant of the original self-winding alarm movement. The Polaris Mariner Memovox followed two years later. Water-resistant to 300 metres and mounted on a steel bracelet, its sapphire back shows off the hammer strikes.

• Memovox Polaris, the dive watch with alarm function, produced from 1965 to 1970, re-edition in 2008 • Based on the most famous version, from 1968 • New collection in 2018