FHH | Breguet Type XX - A Timeless Aviator's Watch

Breguet. Breguet. Breguet. Breguet. Breguet. Breguet

Type XX. Type XX. Type XX. Type XX. Type XX

The contemporary Type XX bears a close resemblance to its forerunners, picking up on the legibility-enhancing design codes established with pilots in mind.

Launch Year

1995

Functions

Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph

Movement

Mechanical self-winding

Distinctive features

Stainless steel case, 39mm diameter, water-resistant to 100m, black dial, luminescent hands, numerals and hour-markers, leather strap

A Type XX was originally a Type XX chronograph built to specifications drawn up by the French Ministry of Defence in the early 1950s. Following a call for tenders, Breguet was one of the brands commissioned to produce some of these models. It took orders from 1954 onwards, first for the country’s Air Force, then for the CEV (Flight Test Centre in Brétigny) and for Naval Aviation. The most famous is undoubtedly the model used by the latter until the early 1980s, identifiable by the “Breguet Type 20 Marine Nationale Aéronautique Navale” inscription on the caseback. Although the Breguet Type XX appeared in civilian versions alongside its military existence, it was in 1995 that it was truly launched as a regular collection.

Type XX Military circa 1955 ©Breguet

Type XX Military circa 1955 ©Breguet

The contemporary Type XX bears a close resemblance to its forerunners, picking up on the legibility-enhancing design codes established with pilots in mind, from the black dial and luminescent indications to the style of the Arabic numerals, hands and counters of the era. One especially noteworthy feature is the oversized 3 o’clock minutes totalizer, a throwback to the original, that makes elapsed times easy to read. While the movement is, of course, not the same, the chronograph still has the flyback function that was a must on the early models and enables resetting and instant restarting of a new measurement with a single push. 

The new self-winding calibre powers the chronograph functions – central seconds, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – and sits in a modern case featuring a larger rotating bezel and the brand’s typical fluted pattern on the caseband. In 2010, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of French Naval Aviation and the 50th anniversary of the Type XX created for it – 500 of which were ordered in 1958 and delivered in 1960 –, Breguet issued a 1,000-piece limited series distinguished by a black lacquered bezel with raised numerals, an exclusive crown more like the original one, and a commemorative engraving on the caseback.

The line currently comprises three models. The 39mm Type XX was followed in 2005 by the 42mm Type XXI with date and 24-hour display, and in 2010 by the 44mm Type XXII with date, GMT and 24-hour display, powered by a high-frequency movement for exceptional precision.

From 2016 the Type XX 3800 was gradually withdrawn, while a new iteration was introduced in 2021: the Type XXI 3815 derives its distinctly sports look from a 42mm case in titanium, 100-metre water-resistance and luminescent green or orange hands and markers.

Key Characteristics

  • Flyback chronograph, created for French military pilots
  • Regular collection launched in 1995, true to the original military design codes