To paraphrase Mark Twain, reports of the dress watch's death have been greatly exaggerated. No longer content to play a supporting role, a face in the crowd, classic watches are back in the spotlight. There was a time, not that long ago, when a watch that slipped under a cuff would be called out as being afraid to show off its mechanical pedigree in a digital-dominated world. Not any more. After watches the size of a pizza, it's time for something more digestible.

No doubt the macro-economic climate has something to do with this. A dozen or so years ago, we lived in a global village and watch brands were as much at home in Shanghai as they were in Vancouver, Cape Town or Helsinki. A slowdown in global trade followed by a global pandemic with a topping of rampant inflation put optimism on hold, especially now that post-Covid revenge buying has dried up. All this translates into a sobering economic outlook which can be seen on watch dials.

Smaller case sizes were a first sign, as watches dipped below the 40mm bar. These more modest diameters brought with them a reduction in the number of functions, with the emphasis on one of the fundamentals of watchmaking, which is to show the time with the greatest possible precision. This was borne out by the surge in demand for neo-vintage. Watches from the pre-CAD era sported diameters that came well within reason and were never overloaded with complications. Even as the vintage trend tails off, its precepts haven't disappeared and this has paved the way for the three-hander's triumphant return.

Every brand had something to offer in this department, particularly as a three-hand watch can be a gateway to further purchases, hence a segment that independents, such as Czapek, shouldn't neglect. It describes its Promenade collection as one whose "complexity lies in its simplicity." This contemporary classic style was also evident at Frederique Constant (Classique Date Manufacture), IWC (Portugieser Automatic), Rolex (Perpetual 1908) and TAG Heuer (Carrera Date), among others. Even as brands take liberties with the classical canons by adding colour to dials, the fundamental rules prevail with round cases – one exception being Cartier's Baignoire –, sizes that suit any gender and a soberly elegant design. Whatever the metal, steel or gold, all that matters is to forge a connection with the deepest nature of time, as Grand Seiko shows with its Evolution 9 Manual-winding Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours.

Of course, when time is of the essence there can be no skimping on the movement. Chopard's L.U.C XPS Forest Green demonstrates the three fundamental values of technical merit, aesthetic refinement and a commitment to certified performance, with "Chronometer" inscribed on the dial to prove it. Vacheron Constantin ticks the same boxes with its Overseas Self-Winding. Beneath its viridescent dial, the in-house Calibre 5100, like the rest of the watch, is certified Poinçon de Genève. As for Grönefeld's 1969 DeltaWorks, the waitlist (measured in years) to acquire one suggests its G-06 movement is very much of the same ilk.