Rugged, durable, accurate: these models have all the necessary attributes to survive in a hostile environment. Underwater, of course, but not just. A dive watch will do the job on any exploration or observation mission, on rugged terrain or arid land, thanks to its intrinsic qualities of legibility, a rotating bezel (for getting your bearings) and water-resistance. Montblanc packages all this into its Iced Sea. Introduced in 2023, this year the collection welcomes a 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 that is engineered to withstand pressure equivalent to a depth of 4,810 metres: that's as deep as Mont Blanc is high. Meanwhile, Baume & Mercier has equipped its Riviera with a tide gauge, while Bell & Ross brings a vintage vibe to its BR 03-92 in bronze with a green dial.

When it comes to dive watches, the list is long, from Oris and its Acquis Date to Alpina with the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic; from Bremont's Supermarine 300 to Zenith's Defy Extreme Diver, via TAG Heuer and its Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. And let's not forget the brands taking to the waters for the upcoming America's Cup in Barcelona, where Tudor, partner to Alinghi, will line up alongside Panerai, sponsor of Luna Rossa. Needless to say, both brands have developed dive watches that have nothing to envy the high-tech yachts that literally fly above the surface of the waves. Panerai came to Watches and Wonders Geneva with the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa in Carbotech™: proof that watches cut out for the deep aren't necessarily averse to complications; a fact borne out by IWC and its Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.

It would be impossible to downplay the importance of chronographs among sport watches. This omnipresence is hardly a surprise, given that chronographs have always had connections with the world of sport, both human and mechanical, mirroring advances in the performances of racing cars and athletes alike. Diving, on the other hand, relates more closely to the desire for sensations and experiences that brands tap into. No need to hoist the sails to feel the thrill of adventure, a dive watch on your wrist.

Brands have found a way to please the less intrepid fans of the look by casing their models in precious metals. Tudor presents a Black Bay 58 18K cased in gold, which it describes as "midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines Tudor and a precious object." Rolex is effusive in its description of the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea, guaranteed water-resistant to 3,900 metres and this year sculpted in yellow gold: "Precious and technical. Majestic and innovative. A bright watch for the dark abyss. The new version of the Rolex Deepsea is engineered to shine into the ocean depths." Even without going to such lengths – or depths –, dive watches are clearly out to dazzle.